Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, also known as Biopeptide El™, is a conjugate of Palmitic acid and a matrikine peptide with a sequence Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, known as a fragment of the elastin. It is the most frequently repeated sequence (six times) in elastin, a "spring fragment" that boosts the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
Palmitic acid attached to a peptide, yielding a more lipophilic structure, considerably enhances skin penetration, efficiency, and potency. It enables the potentiation or even initiation of the cosmetic activity, which requires the peptide's transport to the living tissues of the skin. In vivo studies showed that Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 permeates into the stratum corneum and epidermal layers and maintains and restores the skin barrier after delipidation (detachment of the Palmitoyl group).
Hexapeptide-12 has chemotactic properties, attracting skin fibroblasts to sites of inflammation or cicatrization and stimulating their mobility. Additional research revealed that this peptide, in particular its derivatized form, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, is endowed with unsuspected cosmetic activities, namely firming, toning, and restructuring effects on the skin of the neck and face.
In addition, the Biopeptide El™ restructuring effect enhances skin moisturization. Newer research showed that the concomitant use of the peptide and Ceramide NG in cosmetic or skin care compositions (Dermaxyl™) enhances anti-aging effects, barrier function, and hydration levels.
