Topically, it has been used in lotions as a soothing agent, oil-in-water emulsifier, and as astringent. Acacia Senegal gum is used externally to cover inflamed surfaces like bums or nodular leprosy.
Carbohydrates
This group is composed of highly effective skincare ingredients which are derived from diverse natural sources: plants, grains, fungi, and yeast. The majority of carbohydrates incorporated in beauty formulas are glucans, long chains of glucose molecules that are connected together. Being derived from plants or microorganisms these compounds are pretty familiar to our body cells, so they don’t cause any dermal irritation or sensibilization. Some of the glucans are even utilized in the food industry. Obviously, they are safe in concentrations used in cosmetics.
Glucans are a total win-win for all types of complexions. First, these carbohydrates are exceptional moisturizers. Being applied on the top layer of the epidermis they form a delicate layer on it and, thus, hinder water evaporation from the face surface. On the other hand, due to their chemical structure, they have the ability to bond water molecules and keep them inside dermal layers. The double moisturizing effect of these molecules protects skin from dehydration, consecutive dermal destruction, and wrinkle formation.
Next, they are potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents. These carbohydrates efficiently hunt and neutralize free radicals, which are the main cause of collagen quantity drop and wrinkling. Actively penetrating the epidermis and dermis they also stop the harmful cascade of inflammatory processes and prevents degradation of the skin frame.
Also, these compounds are involved in the inhibition of melanin production. In this way, they battle hyperpigmentation, one of the most common problems of aging skin. And this is not the end. Some carbs are incorporated into beauty formulations to serve as prebiotics (food for dermal microflora). Microorganisms are an essential part of our body's uppermost layer and their bioactivity straightforwardly affect skin integrity. This is why microbiome-friendly beauty formulas are one of the trends of 2021.
Taking into account all these impressive benefits of polymeric carbs many famous beauty experts mention glucans as must-have ingredients of result–delivering skincare products.
Agar is a galactose sulfate polymer obtained from red seaweeds like Gracilaria and Gelidium and forms heat-stable, strong gels at concentrations less than 0.5%. The gel forms at 90°F and melts at 190°F, showing a high hysteresis lag.
Carrageenans are anhydrogalactose sulfate polymers (both gelling and non-gelling types) obtained from red seaweeds, including Eucheuma and Chondrus species.
Carrageenan is a protein-reactive gum that stabilizes protein-containing cosmetic formulations.
Cellulose is the primary component of green plants. It is an organic polysaccharide (complex carbohydrate) derived from beta-glucose and is used in conjunction with a marine focus as a natural exfoliating agent.
Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum is a highly purified fraction of branched galactomannan saccharide polymers with a mannose-to-galactose ratio of 4:1. It is derived from the seeds of the legume tree Ceratonia siliqua.
Guar gum is a plant polysaccharide obtained from the shrub's seeds, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba, which, like the soybean, belongs to the Family Leguminoseae. It is a non-ionic, salt-tolerant galactomannan with excellent thickening properties.
Maltodextrin is a generalized name for polysaccharides composed of short-to-medium long chains of glucose units (from 3 to 20 units, linked primarily by α-1–4 bonds) produced from starch.
Cellulose derivatives have the polymeric backbone of cellulose, with repeating anhydroglucose units. After alkaline treatment, cellulose is reacted with methyl chloride to yield methyl ether groups. The end product is purified and ground to a fine powder and is known as methylcellulose.
Microcrystalline cellulose is purified, isolated colloidal crystalline cellulose derived from fibrous plants. It is a white, free-flowing powder that is odorless and insoluble in water.
Pectins are heteropolysaccharides abundant in plant cell membranes. They are polymers galacturonic acid sup-units and are acid-stable gel formers obtained by extraction from apple or citrus peels.
Pentavitin® is a complex of vegetable carbohydrates capable of binding and retaining moisture in the skin for a long time. Vegetable carbohydrates are very similar in composition to carbohydrates in the upper layer of the epidermis.
Propylene Glycol Alginate is an ester derivative of alginic acid (containing polymannuronate and polyguluronate esters) obtained from Laminaria or Macrocystis species of brown seaweeds after a series of purification steps.
Saccharide Isomerate increases the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum; adheres to the keratin of the horny layer; reduces dryness and irritation caused by Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).
Sialyllactoses are the core functional oligosaccharides in the mother’s milk. They protect an infant from external viral infection when its immune system is not fully developed. The oligosaccharides are known to have an anti-adhesion effect, so the virus cannot infect through cell membranes.
Xanthan gum is a natural carbohydrate gum produced by a yeast-like micro-organism. It has soothing properties and is used as an emulsifier and thickener to help with the consistency and stability of creams.