MelinOIL™ is an oil-soluble version of a-MSH (a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) biomimetic peptide (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1) developed to promote the natural skin defense system against the sun and UV-induced damage, protecting cells and limiting premature photoaging. It is a patented peptide microemulsified in an oil phase by a calibrated synergistic selection of phospholipids. The ultra-small droplet size (< 100 nm) and the specific water/oil/phospholipid ratio result in a transparent oil, allowing its incorporation into precise oil-based products such as sun care oils and anti-aging oil serums. Furthermore, MelinOIL™ can be used in oil-in-water and water-in-oil sun care and anti-aging emulsions, demonstrating its versatility.
By mimicking the a-MSH sequence and activity, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 can bind the MC1-R (Melanocortin 1 Receptor) receptor on both keratinocytes and melanocytes. It thus stimulates the natural cell photoprotection process to preserve skin health after repeated sun exposure, leaving a triple effect:
- Stimulates melanin production
Pigmentation is an essential skin protection mechanism against sun damage. Due to its ability to absorb UV radiation, melanin is considered a natural cellular sunscreen, neutralizing the powerful rays that penetrate the skin before they reach the DNA. The activation of MC1-R on melanocytes stimulates the tyrosinase activity (+83%) and then the melanin production by melanocytes (+95%). A more extensive dendritic network facilitates melanin transfer to keratinocytes. The higher melanin content in the epidermis visibly increases skin pigmentation (+54%), thereby providing better internal skin protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation. - Protects DNA
UV rays and UV-induced free radicals are significant factors in skin cell DNA damage and are recognized as among the most critical causes of skin aging. The activation of MC1-R on keratinocytes stimulates DNA repair and protection mechanisms, thereby limiting photoaging caused by sun overexposure. - Sooting effect
The inflammation induced by UV light exposure has been well described. The accumulation of inflammatory mediators, such as cytokines and prostaglandins, leads to visible manifestations such as redness, sunburn, and swelling. The activation of MC1-R on keratinocytes triggers an anti-inflammatory response, as evidenced by decreased levels of inflammatory mediators such as IL-1a, IL-8, and PGE2. The skin is then significantly protected from the appearance of UV-induced erythema. In addition, the apparent delay in the onset of sun-induced redness indicates that the skin is less sensitive to UV-induced inflammation.
Specially designed for oil-based formulas, MelinOIL™ is the perfect ingredient to complement sunscreens and protect skin from photoaging.
