Emollient

Emollients are among the most versatile and essential ingredients used in personal care products today. They allow formulators to control the final product's all-important feel.

Emollients are designed to help formulators deliver particular sensory experiences into personal care formulations. Properties important in this class of ingredients are firmness, spreadability, greasiness, absorbency, slipperiness, gloss, and others.

But beyond that, emollients can provide a range of functionalities – from moisturization, solubilization, and lubrication to improving skin's elasticity and substantivity and adding gloss.

Careful selection of an emollient can invigorate the formula, making it perfect for the application. So what's the problem? There are literally thousands of choices of emollients available for evaluation—and a product needs to be finished right away.
Marshmallow root extract is rich in asparagine, pectin, starch, sugars, tannins, and volatile oil, with excellent antioxidant, moisturizing and soothing properties.
Like other forms of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate helps prevent cellular aging by inhibiting the cross-linking of collagen, oxidation of proteins, and lipid peroxidation.
Berry wax smoothens and softens the skin, moisturizes the lips and lends the hair a silky shine. It can guard the skin against harmful environmental factors by leaving an invisible protective layer.

Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum is a highly purified fraction of branched galactomannan saccharide polymers with a mannose-to-galactose ratio of 4:1. It is derived from the seeds of the legume tree Ceratonia siliqua.

Cetyl Acetate is an active, hydrophobic, clear liquid ester. It has the property of sometimes crystallizing at ambient temperatures. It is a liquid or a soft solid at 25ºC. At reduced temperatures, it will haze or solidify. Warm to 40-50°C to restore clarity and/or liquid state.

Irish moss (Chondrus Crispus) is common in the intertidal zone on all shores of the North Atlantic. Historically, Chondrus Crispus has been used internally as an excellent remedy for tuberculosis, coughs, bronchitis, and intestinal problems.

Cohune oil (Orbignya Cohune Seed Oil) is a non-drying emollient oil said to be superior to coconut oil in skin feel. The Cohune tree is a palm (Attalea cohune or Orbignya Cohune) that grows abundantly in lowland forests.

Collamoist WS is a water-soluble protein and emollient complex that work together to provide balanced moisturizing qualities to the skin and hair.

Historically, Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) seeds were considered carminative and stimulant and have been used to treat hiccups, chronic coughs, flatulence, and dysentery.

Dihydroabietyl Behenate is a completely vegetable-derived ester formed by the reaction of Dihydroabietyl Alcohol with Behenic Acid. It is semi-solid at ambient temperatures, oil-soluble, and water-insoluble.

Glycereth-7 Benzoate is a colorless to slightly yellow viscous liquid. It is dispersible with water and castor oil and exhibits self-emulsifying properties, enabling dense formulations that tend to deposit on the skin.

Glyceryl Ascorbate is a vitamin C derivative produced by binding glycerin to ascorbic acid. It has a vitamin C-like skin-conditioning effect and a convincing luxury sensory texture, making it one of the best vitamin C derivatives for professional cosmetics.

Traditionally Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) extract has been used for the treatment of inflammatory conditions in Europe. Novel experimental findings showed that Equisetum arvense has a modulatory effect on T-leucocytes that producing mediators of inflammation. It provides an anti-inflammatory effect, soothing, smoothing edema, and eliminating irritation of the skin.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a modified synthetic polymer. It is a clear, water-white, viscous liquid without odor. Its viscosity, flash point, and specific gravity depend on the average molecular weight (polymerization level), which ranges from 350 to 1300 Daltons.

Isocetyl Behenate is a low-viscosity, stable, vegetable-derived liquid ester. It is a clear yellow liquid at 25°C without odor and taste. It is miscible with natural and mineral oils and silicones; and insoluble in water, ethanol, and propylene glycol.

Isododecane is a synthetic aliphatic hydrocarbon with a branched structure. It is a safe, non-irritating, and non-comedogenic cosmetic-grade solvent and emollient with low viscosity, good volatility, spreadability, and drying time.

Isoeicosane is a clear, color- and odorless liquid hydrocarbon with low viscosity and good spreadability. It is used as a conditioner in hair care and as a lipophilic, low-viscosity carrier in skin and sun care.

Isohexadecane is a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid with a slight volatility. It is used in skin and sun care products to leave a silky, light-emollient feeling on the skin. It is dermatologically safe, non-comedogenic, and non-greasy.

Isostearyl Palmitate is a clear, practically odor-free liquid ester derived from all vegetables. It is soluble in mineral and natural oils and insoluble in water, ethanol, and propylene glycol. It has excellent esthetic properties and produces non-greasy, tack-free films.

Laneth-15 is ethoxylated lanolin alcohol with 15 moles of ethylene oxide, a nonionic surface active agent with a remarkable blend of branched-chain alcohols and sterols. Due to these natural skin-moisturizing lipids, this ingredient possesses significant emollience.

Laneth-5 is a lanolin alcohol ethoxylate with five moles of ethylene oxide. It is a nonionic surface active agent containing a unique combination of branched-chain alcohols and mixed sterols, the most important of which is cholesterol.

Lanolin Wax is a lanolin derivative (a more dense and solid fraction of lanolin). It is a yellow-to-tan waxy solid with a mild, pleasant odor. Its melting range is close to body temperature, 41-51°C, so it can be used as a natural moisturizing emollient in body lotions.

Octyldodecyl Erucate is an oil-soluble, liquid ester. It is wholly vegetable-derived. A long carbon chain length ester (42 carbon atoms) is surprisingly shallow in viscosity and has excellent shelf-life and clarity at low temperatures.

Oleth-3 is an ethoxylated oleyl alcohol with three moles of ethylene oxide. It is an off-white, hazy liquid with a mild, characteristic odor (virtually odorless).

Oleth-5 is an ethoxylated oleyl alcohol with five moles of ethylene oxide, an off-white, hazy liquid with a mild, characteristic odor (virtually odorless).

Oleyl Lactate is a vegetable-derived, slightly yellow, clear to slightly hazy, somewhat viscous liquid at ambient temperatures with a slightly fatty odor. It is miscible with natural and mineral oils, dispersible with propylene glycol, and insoluble in water and ethanol.

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is a methyl glucoside derivative (ethylene oxide on a methyl glucoside backbone), a vegetable-based liquid thickener with a three-dimensional structure.

PEG-35 Soy Glycerides is a water-soluble ethoxylated vegetable oil derivative from refined soybean oil. It is a waxy paste that is stable under pH extremes, nonionic, and compatible with other ionic species in formulation.

Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate is a monoester for laruic acid with a polyglycerol with three glycerin units. It is a clear to slightly hazy viscous liquid with a slight characteristic odor.

Polyisobutene is a general name for a wide range of aliphatic branched-chain polymeric hydrocarbons C56 –C856. It is a clear, colorless, odorless, viscous liquid with a good safety profile.