Oleth-3 is an ethoxylated oleyl alcohol with three moles of ethylene oxide. It is an off-white, hazy liquid with a mild, characteristic odor (virtually odorless). It is a nonionic surfactant that offers a diverse set of emulsifying characteristics with an HLB value of 6.6, allowing it to confer unique bodying, spreading, and stabilizing properties to emulsions.
While the presence of the ether linkage in its structure confers exceptional stability, the absence of an ester linkage in Oleth-3 virtually eliminates any tendency for it to hydrolyze. Given these conditions, it is incredibly tolerant of strong acids and alkalis and can tolerate higher levels of electrolytes than ester-type surfactants can.
Oleth-3 is recommended as an emulsifier in cold creams, as lower ethoxylates have been found to improve the cream's whiteness, smoothness, and gloss and have been shown to increase its stability and enhance its cleansing action. The use of low HLB ethoxylates in cold creams also yields systems that require less beeswax concentration, enabling them to tolerate an increase in their water content. It is also helpful in incorporating hard-to-emulsify ingredients into the formulation.
In lipsticks, Oleth-3 is particularly recommended as a solvent for these Bromo dyes because it confers desirable characteristics to the stick and provides efficiency in its production. Its ability to enhance the dye's retention on the lips allows for sticks to be produced with a lower concentration of dyestuff. As the most emollient of the oleyl ethoxylates, it can also counteract the drying effects of these dyes and lacks the bad taste characteristics typical of most dye solvents.Used in combination with Oleyl Alcohol, Oleth-3 acts as a pigment dispersant for the stick and helps prevent bleeding or streaking, an adverse condition that can sometimes develop with the use of titanium dioxide. As lower ethoxylate, it has emollient characteristics that give it superfatting properties and counteract the degreasing effects of shampoos and other cleansing products. It is a fully biodegradable ingredient.