Palmitoyl sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl sh-Nonapeptide-1 is a lipo-peptide that acts as an antagonist of an α-MSH (α-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone). It is a synthetic peptide whose sequence (Ser-Tyr-Ser-Nle-Glu-His-D-Phe-Arg-Trp-Gly-Lys-Pro-Val) is close to the melanotropin alpha hormone - α-MSH's sequence (Ser-Tyr-Ser-Met-Glu-His-Phe-Arg-Trp-Gly-Lys-Pro-Val) that stimulates melanin production.
Thanks to amino acid replacements —Methionine at position 4 with Norleucine and L-Phenylalanine in its D form at position 7, which plays a crucial role in ligand-receptor interaction —the synthetic peptide becomes opposite, occupying the α-MSH receptor without stimulation.
Palmitoyl sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl sh-Nonapeptide-1 binds to MC1R receptors on the melanocyte's surface, blocking the hormonal signal that would increase melanin production. Due to its side palmitoyl group, it can reach melanocytes and acts as a potent skin-whitening agent, evens skin tone, and reveals a brighter, rejuvenated, and radiant complexion.
Thanks to its selective affinity for skin melanocytes, Palmitoyl sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl sh-Nonapeptide-1 is used in advanced peptide complexes such as X50® Pure White and X50® Lightening as a targeting peptide, helping deliver the complex directly to melanocytes and boosting the effectiveness of the ingredient at minimal concentrations. Attached to the polymer capsule, it binds to the MC1R receptor, which then breaks down the capsule, releasing active ingredients near melanocytes.