Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Functions
Skin whitening agent
Skin conditioning
CAS Number(s)
175357-18-3
FDA UNII
271P08C6OD
INCI name
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is a substituted amino acid derivative of Phenylalanine and Undecylenic acid. It is a white crystalline powder whose amphiphilic molecular structure provides cutaneous bio affinity.

In the pigmentation cycle, αMSH (melanotropin) stimulates melanogenesis via a type 1 transmembrane receptor: MC1R. MSH activity also increases in hyperpigmented areas or areas exposed to UV rays. Light skin type subjects who only tan slightly under the effect of UV rays have few MC1R receptors at the level of their melanocytes. These receptors, activated by MSH and analogs, are inhibited by the natural antagonists in the skin, the Agouti-related proteins (AgRPs). These proteins have phenylalanine amino acid in a key position, essential in binding on MC1R receptors. In this way, AgRPs inhibit melanogenesis.

Mimicking Agouti-related protein action, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine binds to MC1R on monocytes, blocking receptor activation, acting as αMSH antagonist, and inhibiting melanotropin cascade. In short, it inhibits melanogenesis (melanin production), providing a significant skin-lightening effect.

This mechanism of action is original compared to standard skin-lightening agents, such as hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (VCPMG), which do not involve the receptor of α MSH. In vitro tests have shown the enhanced effectiveness and good
tolerance (at the recommended dosage of 2%) of Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine compared to these active reference lightening agents. It shows distinct lightening action evidenced by an increase in light, a decrease in color parameters, and a decrease in the melanin content of human epidermis reconstructs.

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is stable and can be incorporated into all types of formulations (including white and slightly perfumed formulations). It is perfectly compatible with the reference agents. In addition, a formula containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is resistant to UV rays over time and keeps its whiteness, which is not the case for conventional lightening agents.

Synonyms
Sepiwhite™ MSH

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