3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid is a lipophilic derivative of vitamin C, a cetyl (C16) ether where the alkyl chain is attached to the 3‑hydroxyl group. It is a more lipophilic analog of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. This modification improves stability and skin affinity, enabling greater penetration into the stratum corneum and epidermis than ascorbic acid.
Ascorbic acid and its derivatives used in skin care applications stimulate collagen synthesis, protect against oxidative stress, and reduce pigmentation. These functions are preserved in 3‑O‑Cetyl ascorbic acid, and, thanks to its lipophilic nature, it delivers more effectively upon topical application.
Early studies confirmed 3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid's whitening and wrinkle‑reducing effects, linked to fibroblast activation and increased type I procollagen production. More recent tests demonstrated measurable uptake of this derivative in the stratum corneum and epidermis, confirmed by tape‑stripping and imaging.
In a clinical study with human volunteers, twice‑daily treatment with a preparation containing 3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid for 4 to 8 weeks improved skin texture and decreased wrinkles in sun‑exposed areas, reducing roughness and increasing skin density, without adverse reactions. The study further showed that 3‑O‑Cetyl ascorbic acid cleared rapidly from the stratum corneum, with more than 90% eliminated within seven hours, minimizing the risk of accumulation.In vitro carcinogenicity assays revealed no transformation activity at biologically relevant concentrations and no enhancement of UVC‑induced transformation. Clinical safety was confirmed in thirty‑two healthy female volunteers, with no irritation or erythema observed during the trial.
3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid is a safe, stable, bioavailable, and effective ingredient for anti-aging, after-sun, skin whitening, and daily care applications. It retains the classical antioxidant and collagen‑stimulating functions of ascorbic acid derivatives, while providing new evidence for improved skin texture.
