N‑Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide‑56 Acetate is a synthetic matrikine lipopeptide with firming and anti-aging properties, known under the trade name (used in peptide-based complex) Matrixyl® Morphomics™. Its structure is not linear like in regular peptides; here, proline is grafted on the terminal nitrogen of lysine in Pal‑Lys‑His‑Gly and stabilized with acetic acid.
Developed by Sederma, N‑Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide‑56 Acetate is a logical continuation of the Matrixyl® family of peptides, with significant anti-aging effects, and was recognized with the "25 Years of Innovation Award" in 2015 for its impact on the cosmetic field. It was identified through screening of 120 candidate peptides tested in human dermal fibroblast cultures, where it showed the most promising results in stimulating the production of extracellular matrix components.
According to the manufacturer, N‑Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide‑56 Acetate enhances the gene expression and production of collagen type I and fibronectin, which are essential components of the extracellular matrix. LC‑MS/MS and complementary biochemical assays confirmed that the peptide significantly impacts two pathways: one regulating collagen production and another the actin cytoskeleton. Moreover, it upregulates transcription factors such as FOXO and stress-response proteins, including sestrins, both of which are linked to cellular longevity and collagen regulation.
In vitro tests on normal human dermal fibroblasts showed increased collagen and fibronectin at both the gene and protein levels, indicating the peptides' action as a matrikine. These findings suggest that N‑Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide‑56 Acetate not only increases ECM density but also reorganizes fibers, thereby improving skin structure.A novel study combining N‑Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide‑56 Acetate with plant-derived active Bakuchiol revealed excellent antioxidant properties and noticeable antiaging effects, suggesting this complex for topical skincare products.
