Lipsic base

Initially, lip colors were applied as liquid rouge; lipsticks were introduced to the public with the invention of the first pushup case in 1915. In 1934, Francis Chilson wrote, "A good lipstick requires that it must not be injurious; it must spread easily without being excessively greasy; its color must be reasonably permanent; it must not sweat, crumble nor crack. In addition to these requirements, its color must be absolutely uniform, unchanging, and free from mottling".

The wax matrix underneath the lipstick surface changed from a fine, uniform structure to a coarse, non-uniform structure. It was also found that the wax matrix's structure at the lipstick's surface region was affected by flaming, molding temperature, the compatibility of the waxes and oils, the addition of pigment, and the passage of time. In most cases, as the size of a wax matrix was increased, sweating was reduced and delayed.

Looking through historical formulations for lipstick, the base appears to have changed little between those described by Chilson in 1934 and many still offered today, so it is little wonder that the same problems still beset the manufacturer. However, there have been advances, and a far greater range of emollient oils is now available, which can improve texture, feel, pigment dispersion, and durability. Glyceryl diisostearate is described as a non-oxidiseable oil component with good pigment dispersing qualities and a smooth skin feel. At the same time, glyceryl triisostearate is a viscous oil with high skin substantivity and is claimed to improve lipstick durability.

Many other esters are recommended as lipstick base and pigment-dispersing aids to improve the application properties of the stick. These include dioctyl sebacate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, and diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate. While most improvements to the lipstick base have been in replacements for the oily components, di-C14-15 alkyl tartrate is a high melting point waxy multi-purpose lipid and an alternative to natural waxes.